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Overview

Introduction

Bowling Green, about midway between Louisville and Nashville, Tennessee, is of special interest to sports-car buffs: This is Corvetteville. You can see the cars being made at the GM Corvette Assembly Plant. If you're lucky, at the end of the tour you may get to turn the key in a new 'Vette—one person from each tour group is chosen for the honor. (No, that does not mean that you get to keep it.) Next, visit the National Corvette Museum. It's filled with sensational models that range from 1953 (the first year) to a futuristic concept car. Complete your car-oriented visit to Bowling Green with a trip to Beech Bend Raceway Park, a complex consisting of a 1/3-mile paved oval and a 1/4-mile NHRA drag strip located in the Beech Bend Amusement Park.

Those interested in architecture can take a walking tour of the Upper East Main Street Historic District and visit St. Joseph's Catholic Church, inspired by the Cologne Cathedral in Germany. There's also a driving tour of the area's Civil War sites that includes the ruins of four forts.

Not far from town is the Lost River Cave, which has been used in many ways over the centuries: from a shelter during prehistoric times to a hideout for robber Jesse James to a formal nightclub (during the 1930s-60s). Today it is part of a park with a scenic nature trail. Approximately 35 mi/55 km northeast of Bowling Green are more caves, including Mammoth Cave National Park and surrounding attractions.

If you have time, take a side trip to Shakertown in South Union (13 mi/20 km west of Bowling Green), a restored Shaker village that has an 1869 tavern (now an excellent restaurant and bed-and-breakfast) and a restored 1835 smokehouse and milk house. Bowling Green is 110 mi/175 km southwest of Louisville.

Overview

Introduction

This area, characterized by impressive mountain peaks, has several villages. The inhabitants are primarily hunters of seals and bears, and their lifestyle and language are distinct from the fishing communities of western Greenland.

Tasiilaq (Ammassalik)—This village is on an island off the east coast of Greenland and just south of the Arctic Circle (close to the airport at Kulusuk). It was unknown to the outside world before 1884. Plan on three or four days visiting the Inuit people of Tasiilaq and viewing spectacular Sermilik Fjord, glaciers and icebergs (which are often seen by air). Rare arctic flora can be viewed on hikes in the nearby Valley of Flowers. The mountains of the area are suitable for skiing in the winter (there's a ski lift in Tasiilaq). One of our favorite activities is to tour the icebergs by boat: Gliding among the icebergs is spooky—but not to be missed. Other boat trips—good for viewing birds and seals—can take you to the village of Kuummiut.

Because the Tasiilaq/Kulusuk area lies much closer to Iceland than the other parts of Greenland, it remains popular as an Icelandair tour destination. Day-trippers descend on Kulusuk (Cape Dan), a typical outpost tucked between towering mountains and an iceberg-filled bay. It's a good place to buy local beadwork and sculpture. Kulusuk was the site of one of the original Distant Early Warning radar posts, set up by the U.S. during the Cold War to watch for incoming Soviet missiles. The post has since been dismantled. Tasiilaq is 450 mi/725 km northeast of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

The oldest city in the state, Green Bay was founded by missionaries in 1669. Throughout its history, the town's strategic position at the head of Green Bay made it a vital transportation and shipping center.

For most people, though, it's the Packers, Green Bay's National Football League team, that put the city on the map. Fittingly, the Green Bay Packers Hall of Fame is a prime attraction, relating the history of one of the NFL's oldest teams and one of its most beloved (both inside and outside Wisconsin). Tours of nearby Lambeau Field, the Packers' stadium, are also available. It's hard to leave town without a Packers souvenir. Green Bay's fans are known as Cheeseheads, and their yellow foam hats (resembling a wedge of cheddar) are hard to miss.

Green Bay makes a convenient stop on the way to or from the Door Peninsula.

Overview

Introduction

Greenland is hard to get to and difficult to move about, so a trip to this North American island requires a good deal of money and effort. But if you're up for an adventure in a place that's unlike most others, the effort will be well worth it.

In Greenland, you'll see steep, stony mountains crowned with glaciers and enormous icebergs tumbling from the glaciers into a sea that churns between the jagged walls of fjords. Inuit villages can be seen lining the fjord's sides. Don't forget your camera.

Greenland is covered in ice—in fact, Greenlanders will tell you there are three different kinds—but if you can get past the initial idea that ice equals cold, you'll find the frozen water, and Greenland itself, fascinating.

Geography

Greenland (or Kalaallit Nunaat, its Inuit name, which translates as "Land of the People"), is located east of northern Canada. Although politically a part of Europe, it's geographically closer to North America. More than half of it is north of the Arctic Circle, and 84% is covered year-round with a layer of ice (up to 11,190 ft/3,410 m thick). Icebergs are common off the coast. The natural environment is spectacular—rugged mountains, fjords and islands. Vegetation is sparse, with low, dense shrubbery and short-lived flowers. The population of land and sea animals and birds is large and diverse.

Note: Most Greenland towns have both Greenlandic and Danish names. The Danish names are often listed in parentheses.

North and Northeast Greenland are closed preserves. The remainder of the island is generally divided into four areas: Disko Bay, Mid Greenland, South Greenland and East Greenland.

History

The first people to find their way to Greenland arrived about 5,000 years ago from what's now northern Canada. Over time, several different cultural groups migrated to the island. The Thule (pronounced TOO-lay), the ancestors of the Inuit that now live in Greenland, arrived in the early 900s. They were soon joined by Scandinavians when Eric the Red established a Viking colony on the island in the 980s. The European settlements flourished for a time, but by the 1400s, the Scandinavian presence had withered. It wasn't until the 1700s that Danes and Norwegians again established outposts.

In 1814, Denmark got political control of Greenland, and it continues to play a large role in island affairs. A home-rule government was instituted in 1979, which provides for a great deal of local autonomy in day-to-day matters. Denmark remains responsible for issues such as defense and foreign affairs.

About 90% of Greenland's residents live in small villages and towns on the west coast of the island, on the fringe of the massive ice cap. The great majority are Inuit or of mixed Inuit and Scandinavian heritage. The strain of fitting a traditional hunting-and-fishing culture into the modern world has created some social problems—especially with the added demands of the extreme climate. The island has a relatively high rate of domestic violence and one of the highest suicide rates in the world.

Most of Greenland's economy is based on fishing. Hunting seals and whales is an important part of local livelihoods (the International Whaling Commission allows a certain level of subsistence whaling). Denmark, of which Greenland is a part, subsidizes food and consumer goods, and makes up the deficit in the island's annual budget. Over the past 15 years, tourism has become an important factor in the economy.

Snapshot

Greenland's main attractions are unspoiled and unpolluted nature, mountain walks, mountain climbing, dogsledding, cross-country skiing, fishing, hunting, Inuit culture, animals (polar bears, seals, whales, reindeer, musk oxen and birds), midnight sun, northern lights, Viking ruins, icebergs, fjords, glaciers and arctic flora.

Those looking for an adventurous and unusual experience in a little-visited part of the world should consider Greenland. Visitors who are uncomfortable with cool to bitterly cold weather will be very uncomfortable there. Those on a limited budget won't be able to afford the trip.

Potpourri

Golf in Greenland? Yes, but it's played on ice, not grass. Each year in March or April, the World Ice Golf Championships are staged at Uummannaq. Icebergs make for challenging obstacles as golfers try to reach a "green" painted on the ice (though it's actually red). White golf balls, of course, are not used.

If you want to write to Santa Claus, you can reach him at Father Christmas Post Office, P.O. Box 2412, DK-3900 Nuuk, Greenland.

One theory has it that Greenland's name came from the Vikings: Eric the Red used it as a clever bit of public relations when he was attempting to lure colonists from Iceland.

In some schools, children are instructed in traditional hunting skills, skin preparation and beadwork. It's part of an effort to keep the ancestral Greenland culture alive.

In the Disko Bay, the sun doesn't set 25 May-25 July.

In the mid-1990s, a team of adventurers, led by former U.S. Navy pilot Darryl Greenamyer, decided to recover a B-29 aircraft that had been buried in ice in Greenland since 1947. After spending two years and US$500,000 to salvage and restore it, they tried to fly it out—only to have it catch on fire before it could lift off the ground.

Although it's part of Denmark, which is a member of the European Union, Greenland was able to withdraw from the EU. This move protected its valuable fisheries from European exploitation.

Native Greenlanders prefer to be called Inuits, rather than Eskimos. The native language is Inuit, called Greenlandic there. Visitors might feel some resentment from Inuits because of the Western influence on their society, but this isn't directed at foreign travelers in particular.

Greenland resembles a giant bowl filled with ice. At the center, the weight of the ice (up to 11,188 ft/3,410 m thick) sinks the land 1,200 ft/365 m below sea level.

Kayaks (from the native word qajaq) are a Greenlandic invention and were developed for hunting and fishing. They are still used for those purposes in the northern parts of the country.

The largest land animals in the arctic region, polar bears, live in Greenland. They rarely show up around the towns, though.

In answer to almost any question, you may get the response imaqa (maybe), because most activities depend on the weather.

Sheep, the only imported animals able to survive in Greenland, are raised in the southern regions.

Overview

Introduction

The bustling port town of Greenock is most notable for its proximity to Glasgow, though you can easily fill a day with such attractions as Oak Mall, the largest shopping area in Greenock, and the McLean Museum, where visitors can learn about shipbuilding. The Esplanade is the town's beautiful walkway that connects the waterfront to the town center.

Greenock is well connected to other Scotland locations via trains, buses and taxis. Trains run frequently from Greenock's stations, and connections to Glasgow run approximately every 20 minutes. There is a bus depot attached to the train station for those that would prefer to take a bus.

Location

Visitors are usually greeted by bagpipes, which serve as a wonderful introduction to the friendly locals. The cruise ship terminal, which contains a currency exchange and tourist information, is only a five-minute walk down the Esplanade from the town center.

There are two train stations within 0.6 mi/1 km, but the easiest to get to is Greenock West—ask any local for directions.

Overview

Introduction

This pleasant city has an eclectic arts scene and a walkable downtown area with small shops, galleries, restaurants and breweries. Greensboro is home to the Guilford Courthouse National Military Park, site of a Revolutionary War battle between Gen. Nathanael Greene of the Patriots and British Gen. Charles Cornwallis in 1781.

More recent history was created in 1960, when local black college students protested segregation by sitting down at a whites-only lunch counter and staying there until the city agreed to integrate its restaurants, ushering in a series of peaceful civil rights protests across the country. A section of the famous lunch counter is preserved in the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C., but the International Civil Rights Center & Museum, housed in the original Woolworth space, still has four chairs from the lunch counter.

Overview

Introduction

Greenville is located in South Carolina's Upcountry, 100 mi/165 km northwest of Columbia. It was a declining mill town that has reinvented itself as a thriving weekend tourist destination.

Its wide, four-block Main Street retains its old-fashioned buildings and tree canopy. Storefronts boast non-chain boutiques, restaurants, coffeehouses and lounges, and offices and condos fill abandoned textile factories. At night, crowds stroll Main Street and listen to live music beneath trees strung with miniature lights.

Overview

Introduction

On the west coast (partly below the Arctic Circle), this region is best recognized for its highly varied scenery.

Kangerlussuaq (Sondre Stromfjord)—Founded as a World War II airfield, the U.S. sold Kangerlussuaq to Greenland for one krone (US$0.15) in 1992. Greenland continues to run it as a scaled-back air base, and it's one of the island's busiest passenger air terminals. Several military barracks are now hotels, and it has a golf course, a gymnasium and a swimming pool. Set 110 mi/180 km inland, the area has more clear days than the coastal areas and the temperatures are some of the most extreme in the country: terribly cold in winter and as high as the low 80s F/28 C during summer, which is midnight-sun season. Weather permitting, you can cross-country ski in the colder months and take interesting walks in the summer. In winter, it's a perfect place to watch northern lights, as the weather tends to be clear. 200 mi/320 km north of Nuuk.

Nuuk (Godthab)—Greenland's capital and a major fishing town, Nuuk (pronounced nuke) is located near the site of one of the early Viking settlements in Greenland. Even older are the remains of some aboriginal settlements that have been found in the vicinity, the oldest dating back more than 4,000 years. Today, Nuuk bustles with life and activity: 15% of the country's population lives there, and most have arrived since 1950. The explosive growth has created vast, ugly blocks of apartments along with the typical urban footprint of government buildings, schools and hotels.

You might want to begin your visit by stopping at Santa's Workshop, which houses the tourist office. It also sells local handicrafts and postcards, as well as Greenlandic stamps, which are valued by collectors.

After you've gotten your bearings, plan on paying a visit to Katuaq ("the drum"), the Greenland Cultural Center. This triangular complex houses the Nordic Institute on Greenland, as well as Greenland's only cinema. Visitors can also enjoy art exhibitions, concerts, theater performances and a nice cafe.

The National Museum contains displays on Greenland's culture and history, as well as artifacts such as dogsleds and kayaks. The highlight of the museum is a group of well-preserved mummies that date from 1475. They were accidentally discovered by hunters in western Greenland in 1972.

Among the town's historic sites are Hans Egede's house (the oldest colonial house in Greenland, built in 1728 by the missionary who founded the town) and the New Hernnhut Mission (originally a Christian missionary center, it now houses the university). You might also want to stop by the kayak workshop on the harbor: It sometimes presents special exhibitions of kayaking skills. The fjords near Nuuk are a good place for hiking, fishing (trout, haddock and salmon) and whale-watching. 350 mi/560 km south of Disko Bay.

Paamiut (Frederikshaab)—This important fishing town has many fine colonial buildings, considered the most handsome of their kind in Greenland. Other sites of interest include a small museum and a church from 1909. Though this area is rarely visited by tourists, it provides excellent terrain for hardy trekkers and is the home of the white-tailed eagle. 175 mi/280 km south of Nuuk.

Sisimiut (Holsteinsborg)—This village, located 30 mi/50 km north of the Arctic Circle, is the second largest in Greenland and is home to the second-largest college, Knud Rasmussenip Hojskoliat. Perhaps the most distinctive landmark in Old Town is the whale jawbone marking the entrance to a small square, where you'll find the 1773 Blue Church (also called Bethels Church). Behind the church is the old vicarage, which now serves as a kindergarten. A museum and the Gamle Butik (Old Store, dating from 1852) are in the old part of town as well. The aged buildings at the harbor are also worth a visit. South of Old Town is the red church, Bojsen-Mollers. 200 mi/320 km north of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

Overview

Introduction

The island's agricultural center will appeal most to visitors seeking outdoor activities, from hiking to serious rock climbing. Field ice (floating sheets of ice—not to be confused with icebergs) drift in this area in spring and summer, and they occasionally impede vessels that carry supplies to the villages.

Igaliku—This tiny village (known in ancient times as Gardar), shielded by the mountains and blessed with good soil, is in a sheep-raising and vegetable-growing area. It was the main religious center for the Vikings in Greenland, and you can still see the ruins of their cathedral, which was built in the 1100s. Hvalsey Church, one of Greenland's best Viking ruins, is five hours away from Igaliku by boat. 305 mi/490 km southeast of Nuuk.

Nanortalik—This town of 1,500 offers well-kept gardens and scenic views of the surrounding granite mountains. The water around Nanortalik is good for kayaking, and hunters returning in their kayaks with their catch are a year-round sight. In May and June, visitors can witness the feverish activity caused by migrating hooded seals. A good number of the townsfolk move to old hunting grounds in the skerries (small rocky reefs or islands), where they live in tents and mud huts while hunting the seals. Attractions within the town include a churchyard from the colonial period (built in 1916) and a museum (housed in old buildings once used by the Royal Greenland Trade Department). Greenland's largest wooded area lies six hours on foot from the nearby settlement of Tasiusaq. Nanortalik is 350 mi/565 km southeast of Nuuk.

Narsaq—Set against a mountain backdrop, this village offers several attractions, including a museum (equipment and products from famous local printer and publisher Frederik Hoegh); the home of Henrik Lund (a priest and poet who wrote the national anthem); the Krystal Palace (a workshop specializing in modeling local stones); and Narsaq Foto (where John Rasmussen tells the story of life in South Greenland through photography). At Kayak Harbor, you'll see some old kayaks, icebergs and hunters returning with seals. At the nearby mountain of Kvanefjeld, you can hunt for tuttupit (gemstones), and uranium deposits have also been found in the area. Narsaq is 295 mi/475 km southeast of Nuuk.

Narsarsuaq—This airport, which was founded in 1941 as a U.S. air base—personnel departed shortly after World War II—is the gateway to the beautiful Skov and Eiriks fjords and one of the Greenland airports reached by international flights. We highly recommend the area: It's refreshing to walk through the town and its non-ice-covered surroundings of plains, dry riverbeds and wildflowers against a backdrop of glaciers and rugged, barren mountains (nearby Mount Igdlerfik can be climbed in the summer).

Just a half-hour away by boat is Qassiarsuk (Brattahlid), a village that occupies the site of the Viking settlement founded by Eric the Red in the 900s. The ruins of Viking houses and a reconstructed church can be visited. Other trips from Narsarsuaq include a boat excursion down the Qooroq Fjord to Qooqqut Sermiat Glacier (a half-day boat trip) and a hike to Kiagtuut Sermiat Glacier (a six- to eight-hour trip). Narsarsuaq has one big hotel and a youth hostel. 300 mi/480 km southeast of Nuuk.

Qaqortoq (Julianehab)—With its multicolored houses perched on a mountainside overlooking icebergs, Qaqortoq rates as one of the most beautiful towns on the island (with very friendly people). Several old buildings sit around the square, which boasts the only fountain in Greenland. The Cooper's Shop dates from 1781. A museum displays Inuit utensils and Viking artifacts. Behind the museum, there's an exact copy of a turf house from the beginning of the 1900s. The town tannery processes skins and furs and sells high-quality fur coats and hats around the world: Tours of the tannery can be arranged. Other interesting sites include the Culture House (art exhibits) and the old church (a beautiful red wood building).

One popular excursion from Qaqortoq is the boat ride to Hvalsey Church, the most famous and best-preserved Viking ruin in Greenland. On the nearby island of Uunartoq, you can hike to several hot-spring pools—at 95 F/35 C, they are suitable for a dip. Lounging in the warm water while icebergs crash about in the nearby inlet is a rather bizarre experience—but one you won't forget. Qaqortoq is 300 mi/485 km southeast of Nuuk.

Overview

Introduction

Located in southwestern Wisconsin, 115 mi/185 km west of Milwaukee, this town is a pilgrimage site for students of modern architecture. Frank Lloyd Wright built Taliesin, one of his Prairie School masterpieces, south of town. The history of Taliesin is as complicated as its architecture is impressive: Wright built the house for Mamah Cheney, a client with whom he had a scandalous relationship. She was murdered, along with her children and several others, by an emotionally disturbed house servant. Wright ended up living in the house with his fourth wife—but not without further travail. Taliesin survived more than one destructive fire and Wright's perennial bankruptcy to stand today as a monument to architectural genius. A variety of tours are available (May-October), some taking you inside Taliesin, some detailing the Hillside Home School (including drafting studios, galleries and a theater) and some covering the extensive grounds at the complex. Advance reservations are required. The Wright Visitors Center at the complex includes a cafe and bookstore.

If you're fascinated by Wright's work, you'll find many more of his designs in the state. Northwest of Spring Green in Wright's hometown of Richland Center, you'll find the A.D. German Warehouse, a large structure completed in 1921. Tours are available May-November. Racine, south of Milwaukee, has the S.C. Johnson Wax Administration Building, one of his most famous corporate commissions, and Wingspread, one of his Prairie-style houses that's now a conference center. Madison, Milwaukee and Mirror Lake State Park also have Wright buildings (the vacation cottage at Mirror Lake is the only Wright-designed house available for rent). For more information on touring the structures, contact the Frank Lloyd Wright Wisconsin Heritage Tourism Program at https://wrightinwisconsin.org.

Architecture of another sort is evident at House on the Rock, which was built on a high outcropping near Spring Green in the 1940s. Other structures have since been added to the site to exhibit all sorts of things: music boxes, mechanical toys, antique firearms, jewels and one of the world's largest carousels. There's also an attraction called the Blue Danube Music Machine. If the architecture and oddities don't intrigue you, the magnificent view over the Wyoming Valley certainly will.